Back To The Surf

Lighthouse

Popularly called "Lighthouse" today, two ancient surf spots are recorded in Ben Finney's Classic, "Surfing: The Sport of Hawaiian Kings."

Noahaku- Kumoho

The area encompasses several breaks, which change with Swell direction. The best direction is a North/Northwest, but the break will catch directions all the way through the compass to a large straight East. On the classic large North/Northwest swells, the dominant spot is the big left. On smaller North swells, and small East and trade (NE) swells, there is a right over very shallow water (the rocks are covered in extremely sharp barnacles).

There is another right located across the bay from the big Left. This is a fat and unpredictable wave. With crowds exceeding 30, in an area equipped to handle 6 to 8 surfers, this right is being utilized more often now.

 

East of Kauhola Point- Halelua

In John Clarks classic "Beaches of The Big Island," there is recorded a tale about a Hawaiian surfer/chief who was lured to his death in this area (by shark attack) by the deceptive invitation of Kalaniopu'u, to go surfing. Modern times have also seen action, here, with sharks...


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